Hội An in every glass

Six venues, six very different menus, and one habit they share: reaching for what Vietnam grows and makes.

At Mezcal Coctelería, tequila infused with dried Mexican chilies meets sấu, ambarella, rambutan and xí muội, and a margarita can wear a rim of Vietnamese shrimp salt or ant salt. Una Noche Larga is a flight of two coffee cocktails on Vietnamese robusta and arabica.

At Market Bar, the gin list includes three Vietnamese craft gins, one house infusion tastes of phở, and the cocktails run on Sapa apricot wine, charred Hội An chili, Đà Lạt passion fruit and a blood plum liquor. Next door, Ms. Phuong's serves its double-fried chips with, among seven dips, one made from Vietnamese herbs.

On Nguyễn Duy Hiệu, Hèm Hội An builds its cocktails on Vietnamese-made saké and rice spirits, and by day Lalita's Mexican Brunch pours Vietnamese phin and coconut coffee beside its Mexican plates, with Vietnamese craft beer on the list.

Different kitchens, one larder: the one on the doorstep.